TheBalkanPeninsulaisnotoriousforbeingoneofthegreatbattlegroundsofhistory.Andyet,itpossessesanothersideunknowntomany,whereancientforestsandvastwetlandsharborpristinewilderness,andsheercliffwallsanddesolateplateauspreserveaseeminglyunchangedpast.Surveyingthesestrikingandstarklandscapes,onemightthinkthey’veventuredintotheMid...